As the Men’s F/W 2024 circuit wraps up, fashion editors are looking back on the Pitti Uomo, Milan, Paris runways - digesting the clothes, reflecting on standout looks and, most importantly, predicting what trends will have the biggest staying power this year.
And boy, is there a lot to unpack. From Sabato De Sarno’s first Gucci menswear show to Pharrell’s sophomore collection, as well as countless exciting showcases from British designers such as Grace Wales Bonner and S.S Daley - this season will undoubtedly make a huge dent on our 2024 wardrobes.
Throughout the packed schedule one thing remained clear: streetwear is out. Instead fresh takes on what modern masculinity dominated runaways - from office workers at Prada, cowboys at Louis Vuitton and 80s grandpa-core inspiration at Martine Rose.
Quiet luxury and minimalism, also be gone! With more adventurous and gender-fluid silhouettes present across multiple collections, it’s set to be one of the best years in menswear yet.
Skorts
Move over jorts, this year it’s all about the skirt-overlaid drop-crotch short, aka the “skort”. Well, that is if the recent runways are anything to go by. Louis Vuitton sent a khaki green one layered over a pair of trousers down its runway, while Fendi flirted with thick navy wool iterations, as did Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus and Junya Watanabe.
Although viewed as a traditionally feminine silhouette, the skort actually has a long and storied history in menswear dating back to ancient Egypt, where men wore skirt-like “Shendyts” around the waist. But even in the 21st Century the kilt is a mainstay, while heartthrobs A$AP Rocky, Robert Pattinson and Brad Pitt all paraded on red carpets in skirts last year. So make 2024 the year the mainstream jumps onto the trend, too.
I love Wolf & Badger's take on it below, which is perfect for any leftover gorp-core enthusiasts. For a more tailored look, Steven Meisel's collection for Zara features a fabulous wool blend box pleat skort for £49.99.
Fashion Western
With a market cap of over $363 billion, Louis Vuitton has a monstrous influence on what we will all be wearing. This season LVMH's golden child declared western wear in, with the effects of its cowboy-inspired collection already felt in Paris street style roundups (although, that might just be guests wearing the cowboy hat sent as part of the show’s invitation). Either way, with an assortment of chaps, tassel denim jeans, cacti embroidered silk cowboy shirts and decorative bolo ties there’s plenty of other ways to experiment with the look. And not in a costume-y way as per Beyonce’s blockbuster Renaissance tour. No, more like how former fashion director of GQ Magazine Luke Day does it. Chic, tailored and American dandy-esque.
Saffiano leather bolo tie, £390 (prada.com); blue classic cowboy cuff jeans, £472 (yproject.fr/); Sta-Prest flare men's jeans, £110 (levi.com); embroidered sateen western jacket, £662 (ralphlauren.co.uk); cowboy boots with buckle, £59.99 (zara.com); embellished western shirt, £89 (cos.com)
All tights no trousers
In 2023 tights as trousers was one of the reigning womenswear trends. Ever since matriarch Miuccia Prada sent frazzled Emma Corrin down the runway sans pants, celebrities including Kylie Jenner, Hailey Bieber and Lori Harvey have all taken the plunge. It’s a brave look, but everybody I know who’s tried it is an immediate convert. Of course, leave it to JW Anderson and S.S Daley to prove that everyone can join in on the fun, with both designers sending hosiery-only wearing models down the runway. Maybe not an everyday look, but our bets are that the most fashion forward boys will be dropping their trousers in place for tights this upcoming party season. While London Fashion Week will also be flooded with hosiery and tights on the FROW and in street style round ups.
Les Belles is renowned for their gender-expansive hosiery, with tights specially designed for max comfort. At only £15 a pair they're pretty affordable, too. Either style like JW Anderson with a thigh-grazing jumper, or invest in some short shorts to wear underneath.
Men that glitter
The menswear collections predict plenty of opulent, going out-out occasions in our diaries. At least according to the amount of diamantés and sparkly clothing seen on De Sarno’s much anticipated debut, which featured low-neck sparkly tank tops, sweaters with diamanté-encrusted lapels and shiny jackets. Dsquared2 also served sequined jackets, as did Fendi, MSGM and Gucci. While my favourite look at Dior was this sheer vest with a crystal embellished ombre.
The best bit about this trend is you can adjust your commitment levels accordingly. Fancy going all out? Then this Patrizia Pepe number will have you covered.
But for a more subdued take on the trend, Valentino's studded grey jeans are brunch and office-friendly.
High Shine jackets
Whether it’s waxy leather or glossy vinyl, adding some shine to your jacket this season is just enough of a statement without being overbearing. Highly wearable, highly elevated, which is why it’s high on our wishlist. Loewe agrees, as per their deliciously bright orange and green raincoats. As does Dries Van Noten, Dior and Martine Rose, who all sent models down the runway wearing high-shine coats.
Get the look with STUDIO ID's ultra wet-look patent trench coat.
While Urban Outfitter's BDG Alfie Brown Faux Leather Flight Jacket (£89) is a great affordable option.
