
I’m having a moment with a 31-year-old female Asian elephant called Mea Buab. Standing behind a fence under the supervision of her mahout (an elephant keeper or owner), Janwan, Mea Buab has snorted several bucket-loads of pulped banana, pineapple and sugar cane up the immense nostril of her whisker-pricked trunk. For about 30 seconds we lock eyes in, I think, an exchange of mutual respect. My heart sings.
Mea Buab is one of 10 free-roaming female elephants living with their mahouts at Thailand’s newest bush camp. Located in rural Mae Hong Son, a couple of hours from Chiang Mai, the Elephant Hills Bush Camp overlooks the Ping River. Guests stay in one of 10 locally built solar-powered tents with comfy beds and en suites. The camp is rooted in ethical, sustainable tourism and time spent with elephants is limited to an hour a day. Elephant bathing is not permitted here.