2023 has been another bumper year for TV costume departments. From the silk-lined luxury of Succession to the haute couture return of And Just Like That, opulent period-dressing in The Gilded Age and dystopian distress in The Last of Us, clothing on the small screen has been central to character, evocative of mood – as well, simply, as serving some sartorial flair to inspire those of us on the sofa. Here’s our pick of some of the best and most memorable outfits from the year’s television.
Sex Education – Ncuti Gatwa’s club look
Season four of Sex Education saw Ncuti Gatwa’s Eric fully embrace his queer identity, thanks to the influence of a newfound group of friends. And, fittingly, on a night out to a queer club, Eric donned one of his most expressive outfits yet, featuring an orange leather harness and choker, ripped green tank top and plaid skirt. It’s a glorious mishmash of texture and colour, reflecting his character’s joy in experimentation. With his new role as Doctor Who on the horizon, Gatwa promises even more memorable looks for 2024, including a swaggering 70s leather trenchcoat.
The Last of Us – Murray Bartlett’s flannels
One of 2023’s most moving TV episodes came courtesy of Murray Bartlett and Nick Offerman’s love story during the dystopian drama The Last of Us. Embracing the show’s hostile setting, the characters were dressed in sheepskin coats and rugged outdoor clothing. It was Bartlett’s flannels that provided a homely, human counterpoint – and a reminder of the domesticity that had largely been lost in a world now-brimming with infected zombies. Coincidentally high fashion in 2023 – see Kate Moss’s flannel moment on the Bottega Veneta spring/summer catwalk – Bartlett’s worn shirts were an understated touch of comfort.
The Crown – Dodi’s suits
The final season of Netflix’s The Crown brought an array of historical outfits for Elizabeth Debicki’s Diana, Princess of Wales, from her much-photographed blue Gottex swimsuit aboard Mohammed Al Fayed’s yacht to the oversized Polo shirts she made her signature. Yet, it was the baggy cut of Dodi Fayed’s suits that provided an unexpected highlight. Channelling the boxy silhouette of Michael Jordan’s 90s power suits, Khalid Abdalla’s Dodi gave us some menswear flair amid a tragic storyline.
Succession – Lukas Matsson’s flamboyant Swedish streetwear
In a world of quiet, neutral, understated luxury, the final season of corporate drama Succession found an unlikely fashion star in the colourful wardrobe of Alexander Skarsgård’s tech entrepreneur Lukas Matsson. From his gold quilted Needles bomber jacket to a green Acme sweatsuit and head-to-toe Fjällräven, Skarsgard’s outfits reflected the brash way he liked to do business – and injected some much-needed fun into the otherwise drab palette of boardroom trauma.
The Bear – Ayo Edebiri’s workwear dungarees
Back in The Original Beef of Chicagoland, Jeremy Allen White donned his much-mythologised white T-shirt for the second season of The Bear. Aside from the $100 Merz b. Schwanen tee, season two’s starring outfits came courtesy of Ayo Edebiri’s workwear. Whether it was her white overalls or pink Stüssy pants, Edebiri elevated her functional kitchen fits with vintage T-shirts and Birkenstocks, putting a fresh spin on chef’s whites. While her character’s gift of a bespoke, double-breasted Thom Browne chef’s coat from White’s Carmy proved that there is a place for luxury beside the plancha grill.
And Just Like That… – Sarah Jessica Parker’s repurposed wedding dress
Season one of Sex and the City sequel And Just Like That… had its fair share of eyebrow-raising looks – see Sarah Jessica Parker’s “culturally appreciative” lehenga – and this year’s second outing kept up the momentum, including Parker’s JW Anderson pigeon bag and the extremely brief return of Kim Cattrall dressed by original stylist Patricia Field. Yet, it was Parker’s repurposing of her Vivienne Westwood wedding dress that stole the show. Reclaiming the gown after it never made it down the aisle during the first SATC film, Carrie proudly recycled it for the Met Gala, marking a timely tribute to the late Westwood.
Slow Horses – Gary Oldman’s old trench coat
We all have a wardrobe staple, a timeworn favourite we can’t seem to part with. For Gary Oldman’s curmudgeonly MI5 agent Jackson Lamb in the Apple TV+ drama Slow Horses, his tea-stained trench coat is so beloved there is barely a shot of him in the show without it. Looking like a Burberry trench if it was left out in the rain for a decade, Oldman’s coat is a tribute to all the somewhat unsightly pieces we should throw away but can’t bear to.
Lessons in Chemistry – Brie Larson’s accessorised lab coats
Lab coats have never been so swish as in Brie Larson’s Apple TV+ adaptation of the bestselling novel, Lessons In Chemistry. Portraying her character Elizabeth Zott’s journey from lab tech to host of a cooking show, Larson wore customised white jackets throughout. Draped over signature green silk blouses and 50s knitwear, Larson’s coats were given shape and emphasis thanks to statement belts, embroidery and sequined lapels, proving that even the most formless blank canvas can shine.
Topboy – Jaq in Dries van Noten
East London drama Top Boy has always grounded its characters’ criminal dealings in a blend of brands that reflects the city’s mix of streetwear. From high street names Nike and Uniqlo to cult favourites Trapstar and Fullypaid, the show’s outfits are usually every day and affordable. In its final season though, the wardrobe ramped up to reflect the gang’s higher status with Kano’s Sully in a grey shacket from Kith, while dealer Jaq sported a coveted printed Dries van Noten nylon jacket – a burst of colour on the grey London streets.
