
Inside M&S, the lights are up, but the shelves are only half-stocked, a small cluster of people hovering in the bakery section with the quiet intensity of commuters waiting for a delayed train. They’re not here for bread. They’re here for the Speckled Egg Cookies – the ones that are all over TikTok, the ones that sold out yesterday, the ones someone online swore were “by the pastries, second shelf down”.
But even though the store has only just opened, there are none to be had.