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Evening Standard

Lifestyle

Cathy Hawker

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon: an emblem of top-flight luxury and elegance

Four Seasons Lisbon Luxury Michelin

Built in the 1950s when Portugal’s then-prime minister and dictator António de Oliveira Salazar demanded that Lisbon have a hotel fit to welcome the world’s elite, Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is an established, historic and hugely admired landmark in the city.

Descendants of one of the original families that owned it remain in charge and, since adding the world-class Four Seasons brand and their solid-gold service levels in 1997, the hotel has remained an emblem of top-flight luxury and elegance for Lisbon. “This is the best hotel in Lisbon,” said my taxi driver as we pulled up in front of its imposing, modernist façade — and few in the city would argue.

Where is it?

Close to the statue of the Marquês de Pombal that overlooks the prestigious boulevard of Avenida da Liberdade, the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is in the heart of the city. You are five minutes’ walk from the Eduardo VII Park, the largest park in Lisbon named after the British king who visited in 1903, its trees providing a vivid green canopy. From the hotel’s top floors, there are views over the city to the Tagus river. It’s a 15-minute walk downhill to the boutiques of Principe Real, 30 to Lisbon’s Time Out Market and a 15-minute transfer by car to the airport.

Style

At first sight, the symmetrical concrete exterior feels somewhat austere. However, walk through the entrance and you immediately feel the quality of this most elegant hotel. The style is classical but not stuffy. It is also comfortable but with plenty to marvel at from a fresh flower arrangement that soars elaborately, to the ceiling to the extensive and noteworthy collection of modern Portuguese art.

Facilities

An extensive renovation has added a heated outdoor pool and bar to the calm indoor swimming pool, part of the lower floor spa with sauna and steam rooms. There’s a comprehensive treatment menu and skilled therapists — who demonstrate yet more of the Four Seasons superb service levels — using products from Swiss Perfection, ESPA, Is Clinical, Sodashi and the Portuguese brand from the Azores, ignae. The top-floor gym is excellent and well-used by the predominantly American and British guests. Personal trainers are on hand and there’s a pilates studio and yoga classes. Most dramatic of all is the rooftop running track with wide city views. This should tempt even the least enthusiastic runner to put on their trainers and visit.

Extracurricular

You have Lisbon and its seven hills at your feet. Stroll to Principe Real for its collection of ‘concept stores’ in beautifully restored mansions. Take a walk along the Tagus river, climb the narrow streets of Alfama to find the oldest parts of the city, or tour Belém. Catch the famous yellow heritage tram, number 28, as it trundles through the streets on its own tour of the best sites, or linger at a mirador to watch over the city.

The concierge at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon will plan your days for you, suggesting where to stop for lunch or the best place to buy a pastel de nata (a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry). The hotel has a number of tailor-made experiences it lays on for guests: spend half a day in magical Sintra with a local artisan at the renowned Viúva Lamego tile-making factory, operational since 1849, to make your very own azulejo tile (the glossy, reflective tiles that punctuate the city’s buildings bringing colour and verve), or take a bespoke tour of Lisbon’s street art.

Food & drink

The choice is extensive and high-quality, with everything from a casual poolside bar to Michelin-level dining. Varanda Restaurant, where Sunday brunch is a local favourite, opens on to the park, the Ritz Bar serves sushi and sashimi and there are plenty of quiet corners to have a coffee or tea throughout the day. CURA is one of Lisbon’s best dining choices, with a Michelin-starred chef (Pedro Pena Bastos), wonderfully adept staff, and an expert but informal atmosphere. Courses — “moments” as they are called — include bluefin tuna and smoked broth, turbot with wild garlic and Galician ox with sage and chanterelles. It’s unmissable and includes top options for vegetarians.

Which room?

There are 282 rooms in total with 40 suites, all with outside space and the thoughtful luxuries you would expect from a Four Seasons room: crisp linens, deeply comfortable beds, light switches that are easy to operate, and plugs in obvious places. The hotel has now completed an extensive refurbishment, reimagining “the past for the present”. Rooms on the highest floor facing the park and the MarquÄs de Pombal statue will provide day-long drama and a glorious view of the dawn.

Best for...

Feeling like one of the fortunate few. This is a hotel that is serious about service and the entire guest experience — and it delivers in style. The staff are simply the best, full of Portuguese ease and charm with a genuine warmth, while the hotel is a winner for children, couples, multi-generational families and business people.