A celebration without spuds is really no celebration at all. Whether you keep things humble with nothing but butter or go for something more performative, choosing the right variety of potato for the job is essential, as is the addition of fat and salt. “They’re the three things that make potatoes amazing,” says Elliot Hashtroudi, head chef at Camille which opened in Borough Market, London, last month. Chips are the prime example, though that’s not to say potatoes should be confined to a side: “They’re always the bridesmaid, but never the bride, so make a main out of them for Easter,” Hashtroudi says.
With the long weekend falling earlier than usual this year, you’d be hard pushed to better a tartiflette. You’ll need waxy potatoes, plus the usual creme fraiche, onions, lots of garlic, white wine and reblochon cheese, but Hashtroudi would “put a spin on things” by swapping the traditional lardons for smoked eel. “Cheese, potatoes, a bit of wine: you can’t really go wrong,” he says. “A simple side salad with that, plus chocolate for after.”
