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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Tristan Rutherford

‘For inspiration, we go back to family’: the Bangkok hotel chef whose authentic cuisine is rooted in his past

Chef Athiti Moungthong at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok.
Chef Athiti Moungthong at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok. Photograph: Chris Schalkx/The Guardian

Athiti Moungthong (“Aon” to his friends) lets his food do the talking. In his open kitchen at Waldorf Astoria Bangkok, the unassuming head chef conducts a silent orchestra of Thai sous-chefs. Egos are for Netflix. Here, guests can view a real-life culinary drama while sipping Thai-inspired cocktails such as komen (a blend of Phraya rum, Silpin tamarind syrup and Kopi vermouth) as woks are fired up to full power.

The restaurant at the Waldorf is called Front Room for a reason. Diners are literally and figuratively welcomed into an open salon in the landmark hotel’s lobby. Front Room’s interiors mirror the contemporary cuisine: sophisticated yet unpretentious. The decor showcases Thailand’s famous welcome: comfortable chairs and padded banquettes invite diners to while away hours; and 200 glass lights, which resemble the lanterns lit in Thailand to promote good fortune, illuminate the scene.

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