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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Entertainment
Arifa Akbar

Food review – Edinburgh festival banquet serves up theatrical spectacle

Familiar morsels … Food, with Geoff Sobelle.
Familiar morsels … Food, with Geoff Sobelle. Photograph: Murdo MacLeod/the Guardian

A gigantic banqueting table dominates the room, with members of the audience seated around it. A formidable chandelier shimmers above and the white tablecloth is adorned with plates, cutlery and wine glasses. Geoff Sobelle is our waiter for the night and his immersive show, co-directed with Lee Sunday Evans, is the picture of haute cuisine at the start.

The empty table triggers a Pavlovian response: what sumptuousness will we be served? More familiar morsels than a Babette’s Feast of ideas, it turns out. Although billed as a show combining smells, taste and touch, there is little here to fire up a foodie’s appetite as bowls of raw eggs, apples and a plastic fish are briefly put under our noses.

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