Food House, 46 Gerrard Street, London W1D 5QH (020 7287 2818). Starters £5.80-£9.80; large dishes £9.80-£24.80; hot pot £18-£38.80; whole fish £36. Wines from £19.80
All parents will retain a deep affection for any restaurant where their once small children were happy, and the family therefore harmonious and nobody died and can we all go home now please? It’s why Pizza Express retains the love of a slab of the British middle classes, despite endless whining over the current quality of the pizzas, and the silliness of the one with the hole in the middle, and the blood-sucking endeavours of venture capital firms. They have managed to retain a culture that is welcoming to small kids, without infantilising their weary parents. It’s a neat trick. And if you still want to rant about why Pizza Express is terrible, please take it up over on Reddit. Someone there will be gagging for your hot take.
