Obviously, it’s become the height of cliché to live in Hackney (as I do) and rave about Margate but call the cliché police, I’m guilty as charged: I love it!
As Will Jenkins, the owner of newly-opened boutique bolthole Margate House, tells me at one point, “there’s just an energy about this place.” That ‘energy’ might have something to do with Margate’s relative affordability (after all, there’s nothing like the crushing weight of untenable mortgage repayments to take the spring out of your step) or the thriving artists’ community, or the spectacular sunsets. It might just be the fact that there’s a permanent funfair in town (Dreamland — I’d highly recommend an afternoon at the roller skating rink).
Admittedly, marauding hordes of Hackneyites (drawn by the chi-chi wine bars and coffee as good as any you’ll find on Chatsworth Road) might yet ruin it all — the property market has been heating up for years now — but in the meantime, you should go, it’s lovely!
Where?
Margate House is set in one of the slightly less salubrious squares in the Cliftonville area of the town (about 15 minutes on foot to the Turner Contemporary and 20 minutes to Margate Beach) but don’t be put off by a bit of heavy bass blaring out of the odd parked car — as soon as you walk through the door you’re transported into an oasis of artsy calm and good vibes.
Though the Old Town gets the most attention thanks to the pretty, pastel coloured shops and cafes — and a lively seafront filled with bars and restaurants — Cliftonville is definitely on the up. With a thriving community of artists, makers and restaurateurs on and around Northdown Road (it runs right through the middle of Cliftonville and then down into Margate Old Town), it’s got a lot of charm, and great eateries to offer.
Style
The style is striking but not clinical; think mid-mod furniture, exposed brick fireplaces and every wall heaving with eye-catching artworks. In lieu of a formal reception area there’s a drawing room, where you’re greeted by manager Suze; you’re invited to nestle into the pillowy, dusky-pink sofa and have a glass of wine as you get checked in.
Jenkins bought Margate House during the pandemic when it was little more than a grey, rundown shell. Fast forward two years and it’s been restored with a lot of love —and a keen eye for colour. It’s the first thing you’ll notice as you walk through the door, everything is painted a gorgeous dusky-pink-terracotta.
It doesn’t have a name, as the colour was specially formulated for them, says Jenkins. “We partnered with a company called YesColours, and had lots of different samples that we liked from various companies. So we took a bit of this and a bit of that and they made a mix for us.” It exudes warmth without any heaviness. “At some point we’re going to be selling a line of paint colours,” says Jenkins.
Almost everything in Margate House is for sale — from the Haeckels toiletries which are available in the rooms (Haeckels is a super-chic Margate-based natural skin care company; the products are all made with seaweed which has been handpicked in the area), to the antique Italian chairs in the drawing room. Jenkins has turned most of the walls into exhibition spaces, with each of the artworks available to buy (check the price card in your room), thanks to local boutique L’Absurde.
The artworks are lovely — I almost spend £700 on a painting by Margate artist Kavel Rafferty before remembering that I am, in fact, poor. The result is that the whole space feels like a kind of shoppable Instagram ad brought to life. It’s as if the saturation has been dialled-up to eleven — from the deep burgundy of the velvet headboards in the bedrooms to the pops of green and yellow in the vintage framed posters on the hallway — it’s hard not to want it all for yourself.
Which room?
The bedrooms come in three different sizes — small, medium and large. The small are petite, at around 100 sq ft — but as lovely as the rest of the hotel. That same warm terracotta pink is continued throughout, with raffia carpeting, wine coloured, velvety headboards and bed ends. There’s exposed brick and all the furniture has been finished with a bobbin theme. The bigger rooms also come with rattan easy chairs and tables. All the snacks in the minibar are complimentary and each room has a Nespresso machine.
The largest bedrooms — including room 6, where I stayed — have pretty bay windows from which you can just about see the sea (the hotel is set slightly back from the seafront). Even the small rooms, though, have enormous and wildly comfortable beds.
Food & drink
Though they don’t yet have cooking facilities on site, an excellent continental breakfast is included with pastries from local artisanal baker, Staple (hands down one of the best croissants I’ve had in ages). These can be brought to the room or enjoyed alongside other guests at the giant pink marble-top table in the drawing room. If you prefer a hot breakfast, for a supplementary charge, you can also order from The Good Egg, a middle-eastern cafe on nearby Northdown Road. The order is delivered to your door to enjoy in bed (highly recommended! I’ll be thinking about the bacon and date pitta with fried eggs for many years to come).
Facilities
Though when I visit, everything is still in the process of being finessed, there are lovely touches throughout the hotel. Hotel manager Suze is on hand via WhatsApp to cater to all your needs; there’s a display of local artisan perfumes in the drawing room (shoppable, of course), to spritz before you head out. Transfers can be arranged, as can reservations and beach towels should you need them.
Extracurricular
Margate’s food scene has been thriving for some time and it’s worth visiting the town just to spend a weekend eating at the various restaurants and cafes. Angela’s and Sargasso are well known favourites (the former, is my top recommendation — the seafood is outstanding). Closer to the hotel there is Sete, a recently opened bottle shop and kitchen, and local bar Off Licence (the house white is Chin Chin which seems further proof of a Hackney takeover), which are both elegant and fun in equal measure.
It’s always worth ending your day on the seafront, watching that spectacular sunset with a box of fish and chips.
Of course Margate is great for swimming and watersports too, though it’s worth checking the Surfers Against Sewage (sas.org.uk) website before you take a dip.
Best for…
A chic seaside stay that’ll make you yearn for a different kind of life.
