Today’s recipes are in a pleasing seasonal purgatory, but speak chiefly of summer, even though they are made with ingredients that will not cause guilt when bought in the colder months. This makes them ideal to have in your arsenal for when the weather is turning. They are a celebration of deconstruction – not in the nouvelle cuisine sense, where perfectly sensible things are taken apart in a series of blobs, whooshes and towers (such plates speak of food that has been breathed on a little too much). The intervention of the knife and fork is inevitable, so we should welcome the messing-up process; there is a positivity to a method in which deconstruction is the final act of construction – swirling together piles of capers, beetroot, creme fraiche and leaves, or picking the flesh off rabbit bones for the joy of leftovers. These dishes enjoy the input of St John’s executive chef, Jonathan Woolway, and both have the sort of understated elegance you can expect at our new venture, St John Marylebone, which opens later this month.
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