Faux lox: a smoked-salmon-lover’s hunt for a more sustainable alternative

‘Despite my love for the smoked fish, I fear our relationship has turned toxic”: writer Max Brearley on freeing his conscience with fishless fish. Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian

Let’s start with a confession. My name is Max, and I love smoked salmon.

Growing up, it was the fancy fish that came out at Christmas. As an adult, if smoked salmon and I met at a casino buffet (always the buffet) I’d pile that plate high, without shame, driven by my desire to get my money’s worth. A local coffee shop does a smoked salmon bagel, complete with jalapeño cream cheese, that’s been a go-to order of mine for years. But despite my love for the smoked fish, I fear our relationship has turned toxic.