Were there ever a stereotype as pernicious as that which emerges each Father’s Day, courtesy of the gift card shops? There, amidst the fluffy avocados and unicorn balloons, the default assumption is that all dads love beer, balls, bad jokes and gardening, with the odd sports car and bicycle thrown in.
Like all stereotypes, this comes from a place of some truth. Many people will recognise their dad in such tropes. But even if one’s dad is beer-swilling, football-loving, golf-playing, gardening MAMIL (middle-aged man in lycra), it doesn’t mean his palate is as pigeonholed; that his culinary horizons can’t extend beyond burgers and steak. This list is designed for those dads who might speak to these stereotypes, but might also have cultivated their own personality; that is to say, it’s for real dads, unlike those cards.
The Waterman’s Arms
A pub by Old Father Thames is an obvious Father’s Day shout, but The Waterman’s Arms isn’t any old pub. Having changed tack various times over the years, it has finally set its sights on a new age gastropub model, with head chef Sam Andrews at the helm. Andrews hails from The Camberwell Arms — arguably the definitive new age gastropub — so has form in serving chef-lead, modern British cuisine in homely surroundings; in marrying unvarnished wooden tables and, bar stools and beer with dishes like smoked haddock, pink fir potatoes and gribiche. This is dad food with a smart-casual shirt on; oysters come with pickled rhubarb, scallops are curried and the steak is served with smoked garlic butter and mustard leaves. One for the dad that’s prepared to accept that a pub can be more than a pub; absolutely not one for the dad that believes the only acceptable pub food comes in a packet alongside a pint.
375 Lonsdale Road, SW13 9PY, watermansarms.co.uk
Passione Vino
One for the dad who needs to meet near the office, but wants to feel — upon settling down — like he’s more than a phone’s throw away from it, Passione Vino is located near Old Street behind a bright, cheery blue frontage that belies its City postcode. Run by bonafide character Luca Dusi, the shop-cum-bar-come-restaurant prides itself on being “solid, unpretentious and proper”, fuelled by extraordinary wines and food that is “Venetian grandmother-inspired”: think lasagne, polenta and bigoli with wild boar ragu. The decor is somehow Alice in Wonderland meets classic Italian wine bar. So confident is Dusi of finding a wine you’ll enjoy, there is no list; just a conversation with him or his affable manager. Opt for a casual drink and dinner for two, or book their Father’s Day offering of a personalized wine evening with your dad, featuring six glasses that offer a tour of Italy and its flavours.
85 Leonard Street, EC2A 4QS, passionevino.co.uk
Alley Cats
Don’t be put off by the TikTok-fulled hype; at its heart, Alley Cats is the local pizza joint everyone longs for, boasting friendly service, low-level buzz and banging pizzas with thin bases and thick, dip-able crusts. The place prides itself on marrying the best of Italian and New York styles of pizza, though the decor errs toward the latter, with red-and-white chequered tablecloths and — hitting the bullseye of the Venn diagram between Gen Z and dad appeal — a projector playing The Sopranos. Toppings include the classics, plus some rogue white base options and a rainbow of dips in which to plunge those aforementioned crusts, which are soft, chewy and blistered. Queuing is necessary, but once inside, one can linger for as long as the 14-inch pizza lasts.
22 Paddington Street, W1U 5QY, alleycatspizza.co.uk
Bentley’s
Few dads could fail to be pleased by Bentley’s, with its noble 100-year-plus history, classic feel and fresh seafood superbly presented on silver platters, or monogrammed plates which are whiter than the starched tablecloths. Seemingly the whole sea is here, from beluga caviar through to pan-seared turbot, via fish pie and fish and chips for the traditionalists. Steak-lovers won’t suffer, with Himalayan salt-aged sirloin and classic sides, but it’s the pescatarian padres who are best served by Bentley’s. Don’t miss the Irish soda bread; proprietor (and father of three) Richard Corrigan claims it’s the best in town.
11–15 Swallow Street, W1B 4DG, bentleys.org
Papi
Those who recall Matthew Scott from his days at Hot4U may balk at the suggestion of Papi in Hackney. Garum Pom-Bears and vodka watermelon doesn’t exactly scream father. But as Scott has matured, so has his idea of what restaurants should be, rendering Papi — daddy in Spanish — a strong Father’s Day candidate. It’s still fun, as the best dads are, but with a serious, sustainable approach to sourcing and a playlist designed to intrigue one’s ears rather than injure them. The dishes are more refined too; there are cheerful nods to the wackiness of yore, but in essence the menu is more Stoke Newington than Dalston. Dishes like white asparagus, anchovy and pork fat and lemon sole Américaine are served amidst surroundings that are approachably cool; enough for your dad to feel hip, not remind him his hip needs replacing (do ask for a table though; those stools aren’t for any hips over 35).
Papi’s, 1F Mentmore Terrace, E8 3DQ, papirestaurant.com
D Grande
Fast becoming my new favourite way to refer to my father, D Grande is the creation of two Texans who came to London and were disappointed by our then-terrible Tex-Mex scene. Having made their home in Chiswick, they set about redressing it; first, by pointing out that Tex-Mex is its own cuisine, not just bad Mexican; second, by serving up burritos, fajitas and enchiladas that trump anything any Londoner will have tried, unless they’ve actually been to the Dallas. This is fun food to chat and laugh over alongside frozen margaritas (which originated in Dallas), to the backdrop of country music and a genial clatter. The menu is extensive but well executed, and more libertarian than you might expect of Texan joint, with plenty of scope to be vegan, dry and gluten-free.
132 Chiswick High Road, W4 1PU, dgrandetexmex.com
The Buxton
Another one that’s geographically a short stroll and a loosened tie away from the City, but philosophically worlds apart — especially during the summer. Then the bifold doors open out onto a small, sunny terrace that, coupled with the genial hubbub of Brick Lane, is more suggestive of Marseille or Milan. The menu is, too – though with a distinctly modern British spin, evidenced in dishes like English tomatoes, stracciatella and kaffir lime or langoustine with fermented prawn butter. Don’t miss the chance to delve into the natural wine list, ably navigated by the charming French manager, and don’t miss the croissant ice cream, which speaks for itself.
42 Osborn Road, E1 6TD, thebuxton.co.uk
Elliot’s
There (probably) isn’t a food-loving dad in the land that doesn’t love a trip to a market, and Borough Market is the definitive one. It is also almost always heaving, so navigating the way from Neal’s Yard Dairy to Northfields Farm via Utobeer can prove an unpleasant challenge. Happily, one doesn’t need to in order to enjoy the best of Borough Market’s produce, thanks to Elliot’s: a wine bar and wood grill happily perched on the cobbled fringes of this touristy maelstrom. Though many restaurants operating within the vicinity of Borough Market claim to be sourcing from its stalls, Elliot’s is one of the few that actually does, from the Isle of Mull cheddar cheese puffs to the potato, porcini and Parmesan pizza to the pork rack saltimbocca with sage and brown butter. It’s one for the wine lovers — an entire section of the list is dedicated to chilled reds alone — but dads in need of a pre-dinner pint will enjoy the Rake’s extensive selection of craft beers.
12 Stoney Street, SE1 9AD, elliots.london
Pick and Cheese
A pun, a cheeseboard, a silly gimmick, wine — the Venn diagram between Pick and Cheese and my dad was a perfect circle. Situated in Seven Dials, this is the third restaurant from cheese lover Mathew Carver, of the Cheese Bar and the Cheese Barge fame. The concept is a Yo, Sushi! style conveyer belt of cheese courses from which you can pick and choose as you please. Every cheese hails from the British Isles and arrives paired with individual condiments like hot honey and nuts, kimchi or fruitcake. It’s fun, but it’s also well thought through, sustainably sourced and an absolute treat for cheese lovers (and wine lovers too, should the pairing appeal).
