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Evening Standard
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Joe Bromley

Fashion’s great and good pay tribute to photographer Patrick Demarchelier

Patrick Demarchelier, the French photographer famed for his candid shots of Diana, Princess of Wales and his glossy, supermodel strewn covers of Vogue and Harper’s Baazar, died on Thursday aged 78.

The news was announced via his personal Instagram account, with a series of black and white portraits of himself, and the caption: “It is with great sadness that we announce the passing of Patrick Demarchelier on March 31st 2022, at the age of 78. He is survived by his wife Mia, his three sons Gustaf, Arthur, Victor and three grandchildren.”

Born in 1943, Demarchelier grew up in Le Havre, France, before moving to New York in 1975 where he climbed through fashion’s ranks to become a pivotal image maker of the 80s and 90s. He continued to work into his seventies, and his status as an industry great is secured by timeless shots of supermodels including Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista as well as today’s celebrities counting Gigi Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski.

References to him in films like ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ – with the oft quoted line “I have Patrick” – and a cameo in the first Sex and the City film, have helped shape the aura of authority which surrounds Demarchelier.

Patrick Demarchelier and Natalia Vodianova, 2008 (Getty)

After a decades-long career, models, friends and fashion insiders have reacted with shock and sadness to the news of his passing. The reason of death has not yet been disclosed.

Bella Hadid took to Instagram to share a Vogue China cover shot by the photographer with the caption: “I am grateful to have been lucky enough to be in front of your lens. Most gentle, most legendary, soft but full of life. You will be missed Patrick. Rest In Peace. I will miss this day, and you dear Patrick.”

Claudia Schiffer posted a string of her Nineties Vogue covers, writing: “So sad to hear of the passing of @patrickdemarchelier. Will always remember our shoots together — I will miss his enthusiastic ‘Bebe’ and ‘genial’ and the refined elegance he always brought to his work. I so enjoyed working with him and have many fond memories.”

Cindy Crawford shared pictures including a Vogue Paris cover photographed by Demarchelier, along with his photos of her on city streets and in mountainous valleys. “Rest In Peace, @patrickdemarchelier. Thanks for so many great memories and beautiful, timeless images,” she wrote.

Janet Jackson and Patrick Demarchelier, 2010 (Getty Images)

Supermodel Christy Turlington followed suit with a black and white portrait of herself, naked with a white mouse on her shoulder, and shared her memories of the man: “When I think about @patrickdemarchelier I think about places. The many places where we travelled to make pretty pictures in the sun with our various fashion tribes. Cabo, St Barths, Venice, Miami, Los Angeles. Here in NYC it was his museum like studio in Chelsea that never changed where I first met Patrick on a “go-see” in the mid-80’s.”

“He was a tall, seemingly serious French bearded man then, whom I couldn’t decipher a word at first, let alone a sentence,” Turlington continues. “That changed over the years. I learned to interpret everything eventually. The memories and stories are endless really. Another one is gone who was part of an era that is no longer. Rest In Peace, Patrick.”

The American designer Marc Jacobs also took to Instagram to say: “Working with you and playing with you was always a pleasure. In the studio posing, chatting away in the Air France lounge and joining you on your boat in St Barth, you were always the Captain. Thank you for decades of conversation, laughter, art, fashion and beautiful blue skies. My heart goes out to Mia and your sons” It was accompanied by a black and white shot of a young looking Jacobs from Harper’s Bazaar, 1993. “An all-time favourite photo by Patrick Demarchelier,” Jacobs said.

Patrick Demarchelier photographs Jaden Smith, 2017 (Getty Images)

Meanwhile, members of the British fashion industry have shed light on what it was like to work with the man himself.

Commenting on the post announcing his passing, Lucinda Chambers, who was fashion director at British Vogue for 25 years, said: “This is the saddest news. Patrick gave us the happiest of times, all over the world and has left us all with so many wonderful memories. He gave so many people, myself included, their first chance in fashion. He always took the risk. He was funny and warm and just a very brilliant photographer.”

Patrick Demarchelier’s pictures of Naomi Campbell, 1987, and Christy Turlington, 1987 (AFP via Getty Images)

London based journalist Tim Blanks also posted his portrait taken by the late photographer. “Nearly a decade ago, [Interview Magazine] ran a story on fashion journalists and Patrick Demarchelier took the pictures. When I was dropped off at the Paris studio where the shoot was taking place, I told the driver to circle back in 30 minutes. Walked inside. Minimal “hair and makeup”. On set. Started to compose myself. Heard a “Thank you” (I think).”

“What, we’re done? That was it?,” Blanks continues. “Whole thing took less than three minutes start to finish. When I ran outside, my car was just pulling away. I couldn’t quite catch it, so I had an unscheduled and very pleasant stroll through Paris. Yep, Demarchelier sure was a fast worker.”

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