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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Gabriella Opara in Lagos and Caroline Kimeu in Nairobi

‘Fashion can change Africa’: the pioneering designers chasing a world of opportunity

Clockwise from top left: Lagos design house This Is Us co-founders Oroma Cookey-Gam and Osione Itegboje; womenswear and menswearby renowned designer Alphadi  on the catwalk in Morocco; Alphadi in Rabat, Morocco; a rail of designs by This Is Us
African fashion makes its mark (clockwise from top left): Lagos design house This Is Us co-founders Oroma Cookey-Gam and Osione Itegboje; womenswear and menswear by renowned designer Alphadi on the catwalk in Morocco; Alphadi in Rabat, Morocco; a rail of designs by This Is Us. Composite: This Is Us/Alphadi

At a small fashion studio in Lagos, the designers and tailors are busy cutting clean lines through the swathes of fabric. “Cotton T-shirts were the first item we produced,” says designer Oroma Cookey-Gam, co-founder of This is Us, which makes contemporary Nigerian designs, from oversized shirts to jumpsuits and kaftans, using locally produced cotton.

To source the cotton, Cookey-Gam makes a monthly trip to Funtua textile mill, a factory in Katsina in the north, which is one of the few mills fully operational in the country. She then makes the three-hour journey to the Kofar Mata dye pit in Kano, the oldest pit in Nigeria, where the cloth is hand-dyed for up to eight hours into shades of indigo.

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