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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Thomas Graham in Mexico City

Fans queue round the block as tiny Mexican taco stand wins Michelin star

Man in apron prepares beef on hot grill with customers behind
‘Elemental and pure’: tacos being prepared the day after El Califa de León was awarded its Michelin star. Photograph: Héctor Vivas/Getty Images

El Califa de León, an unassuming taco joint in Mexico City, measures just 3 metres by 3 metres and has space for only about six people to stand at a squeeze. Locals usually wait for 5 minutes between ordering and picking up their food.

All that changed on Wednesday, however, when it became the first Mexican taco stand ever to win a Michelin star, putting it in the exalted company of fine dining restaurants around the world, and drawing crowds like it has never seen.

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