Upmarket sushi and Mayfair private members’ clubs marry comfortably, but Endo Kazutoshi should always have his own place. Any sushi master who studied under some of Tokyo’s greats deserves one. And he only pitched up at Annabel’s because his White City restaurant closed due to a fire.
Anyway, Endo’s residency went swimmingly; I’d wager that he could’ve charged £245 twice over and still been full each night. Of all the fancy sushi in London, I like his best. He’s hilarious, charming, witty. With bleached blond hair he guides diners from Irish tuna to Cornish, later Spanish, which is by far the best, among countless other morsels of unrivalled wonderment — and even after 16 courses there’s no sense of tiredness or boredom. Champagne always comes fast; Endo’s own sake goes down quickly.
