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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Josh Barrie

En Root: South London’s first plant-based pub to become permanent after summer pop-up

South London’s “first plant-based pub” is here to stay after a successful pop-up over the summer.

En Root, an Indian-inspired vegetarian concept, will permanently take over the kitchen at the Railway Tavern in Tulse Hill from August 1, bringing reimagined pub snacks and dishes throughout the week and veg-based roast dinners on Sundays.

En Root was founded by cousins Nish and Harsh Modasia as a way to feed South London communities with “fresh vegetables, wholesome pulses, and flavoursome aromatic Gujarati spices.”

There are now three sites south of the river — in Clapham, Brixton, and Peckham — as well as a brand of hot sauce, Raja Bonnet, first made in 2016 and now available nationwide.

(Lewis Khan)

En Root sprang up at the Railway Tavern, one of Tulse Hill’s most popular pubs, in May, and followed the launch of Nish and Harsh’s restaurant at the Ritzy cinema up the road in Brixton.

Dishes include tandoori wings, where oyster mushrooms are covered in a chickpea batter and served with “rajannaise”, loaded fries with jerk plantain and tomato salsa, and “poppadom nachos” topped with dal, pickled cabbage, avocado and raita.

Sunday afternoons will bring a veggie roast either of jerk butternut Wellington, or lentils with cauliflower cheese, braised red cabbage, masala roast potatoes, carrots, sage stuffing, and onion gravy.

The Railway Tavern, meanwhile, will continue to operate as a local boozer, serving beers, wines and spirits and hosting live music throughout the week.

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