Formentera is often referred to as Ibiza’s lesser known, lesser publicised younger sibling. That is by those who haven’t been. This island has character of its own, and with stylish new hotel openings becoming an annual occurrence, it’s only a matter of time before this Balearic beauty slides further into the spotlight.
Where is it?
Dunas de Formentera’s location is paramount. It’s set back from Migjorn, the buzziest beach on Formentera, but somehow has a feeling of seclusion and tranquility within its grounds.
Formentera itself is a ferry ride from Ibiza town following a cab ride from Ibiza airport. It’s worth the convoluted journey, as part of what gives this island its charm is its inaccessibility by plane. For how long though, who knows? The tiny Balearic beauty is growing in popularity and the hotel scene is growing by the season, so don’t wait for direct flight routes if you want to enjoy it in its current state of barefoot charm. Once you’re off the ferry (a fast-track from Ibiza town takes around 25 minutes), it’s another 25 minute cab ride. Do be aware that taxis on these islands aren’t cheap.
Style
Flashy luxury wouldn’t feel right on Formentera, nor would a sleek and glossy look. Instead, the aesthetic here is quietly luxurious; a muted colour palette, rustic in vibe but premium in quality.
Rooms are spacious with sprawling white linen-clad beds and canvas headboards, rattan style furniture and wardrobes built in to stone walls. Wooden window frames continue the theme, as do beams on the veranda of each room’s open-air space. There’s a feeling of bringing the outside in, as floor-to-cieling glass windows let surrounding pines and the azure blue of the sky do the decorative work instead of art on the walls. It’s considered and understated in the best possible way.
Which room?
There are 8 different room types at Dunas, ranging from a double with a dune view (where I stayed), to the ultimate — and the biggest — option: the Panoramica Vista Mar. This has a separate lounge and bedroom area as well as panoramic sea views and a big private terrace. For families, interconnecting rooms are available.
Food & drink
Caliu is the hotel’s only restaurant and the lunch and dinner menus are the same, so book in for day one before exploring the island’s other options. The best part about breakfast is the build your own toast — towers of avocado, cured meats and rocket can be finished off with eggs or a drizzle of delicious local olive oil, Spanish style. It runs until 11am, which suits the lazy lifestyle you’re sure to occupy upon checking in.
When you do venture out I recommend wandering along the beach to Insula (insulabeach.com), where fresh seafood and sharer pastas are served to a backdrop of live music, or head in the opposite direction is Teranka and its rooftop cocktail bar where views of the sunset are unbeatable.
Facilities
The restaurant and small, crescent-shaped infinity pool are set back furthest from the sea, so if escapism and a plush sun-lounger is what you’re searching for, there’s no need to leave the premises. That would be criminal, though, as the rooms closest to the beach are literally steps away, and the water in the Balearics is so clear you can see every detail of each sparkling silver fish as it darts across your feet. Avoid the main sandy stretch (too crowded) and head for one of the secluded tiny coves where clambering across rocks is worth the solo swim. If you’re planning a full day here, grab parasols and deckchairs from reception to set up a plot, but book them early as it’s a first come first served situation.
Ferry port transfers can be arranged prior to arriving which is a big help — no queuing for taxis after the boat trip from Ibiza town. The wellbeing suite is yet to open but it promises therapeutic treatments as well as the option to book in with a personal trainer. For now, enjoy the sea instead — it is, so they say, good for the soul.
Extracurricular
Explore Formnetera’s dusty landscape by e-bike to avoid a hefty cab fare and do things in your own time. There are hidden coves to be discovered, unpretentious cliffside cafes with plastic white chairs and, of course, famous hotspots like Beso Beach (besobeach.com) to enjoy a dance, a sangria and a theatrical paella serving (best to ditch the bike for the ride home after that one).
Best for...
Escapism from real life and a mental reset. This hotel is rustic and pared-back in the best possible way, and if you want to simply sit by the small but pretty pool, away from the buzz of the beach, with a well-curated selection of food and drink to choose from, you’re sorted. It would be a shame, though, as the surrounding area and its plethora of chiringuitos are so worth the sandy-toed wander.
The details
Rooms start from 550 Euros per night on a B&B basis. dunasdeformentera.com
