All lantern-lit limestone alleys, pealing bell towers and russet rooftops, ancient Dubrovnik remains a show-stopper. But if it were a show, the tickets would be perennially sold out – from May to September, you’ll find yourself jostling through crowds along its beautiful Stradun (the main promenade, in ivory-white limestone) and towering city walls. Consider going off-season for a more mellow introduction: up to mid-April and past late September is safest, though you may want to head there in warmer months to make the most of its pretty shingle beaches.
The walled old town – parts of it dating back to the early 14th century – is framed by cascading green coastline, with cypress and olive trees, stone cottages and sea-view restaurants to take in along the way. And remember: pack your comfiest trainers or sandals for this city of steep steps and dramatic slopes. Nearby are two more modern suburbs you can stay in, plus ample ferries onward to Dalmatia’s pretty islands. But first, your city checklist: here are the highlights.
