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Fashion Times
Fashion Times
Lifestyle
Lara Galan

Dreaming Eli SS27 Explores Memory and Sicilian Heritage at London Fashion Week

Dreaming Eli presented its Spring/Summer 2027 collection during London Fashion Week on September 19, bringing designer Elisa Trombatore's London-based womenswear label to the official SS27 schedule. The collection was presented as part of London Fashion Week, which took place from September 17 to 21, 2026.

The presentation marks another step in Dreaming Eli's development since Trombatore founded the label in 2021. According to the official London Fashion Week designer profile, the Sicilian designer established the brand after graduating from the MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins, with the label debuting at London Fashion Week's Discovery Lab the same year. Dreaming Eli subsequently began showing twice annually on schedule, including its first on-schedule catwalk show in September 2025.

Dreaming Eli Brings Its Signature Craft to SS27

The official London Fashion Week profile describes Dreaming Eli as a London-based womenswear label shaped by Trombatore's Sicilian heritage and an interest in femininity, contradiction, self-definition and empowerment. Its collections combine couture-influenced construction with lingerie-inspired elements, using techniques such as hand-dyeing, hand-distressing, pleating and patchworking.

That established approach remained visible in the Spring/Summer 2027 presentation. TheIndustry.fashion reported that the SS27 collection explored childhood nostalgia and memory, with Trombatore drawing on the relationship between her Sicilian background and adult life in London. The collection was titled "Dreamers in Exile."

The collection incorporated distressed silks alongside cotton and gauze, with blush, rose, white and black among the reported colors. Hand-painted fabrics, ruffles and pearls were also used, while the treatment of the materials gave the clothes an intentionally altered appearance.

A model poses for a picture backstage before presenting creations from London-based womenswear label Dreaming Eli during a catwalk show for their Spring/Summer 2027 collection on the third day of London Fashion Week, in London on September 19, 2026. (Credit: Getty Images/Photo by JUSTIN TALLIS / AFP via Getty Images)

Distressing, Screen Printing and Layered Construction

Several techniques gave the SS27 collection its distinctive material language. TheIndustry.fashion reported that Trombatore introduced screen printing for the season, with imagery referencing Baroque Sicilian churches and tattoos. A vinyl technique developed for an earlier collection was also extended through combinations of denim, lace and vinyl designed to create a leather-like effect.

Lace was similarly manipulated through hand-cutting and ripping, exposing layers beneath it. These techniques connect directly with the hands-on production methods highlighted by the official London Fashion Week profile, which notes that Dreaming Eli makes its collections in London using handwork including dyeing, distressing, pleating and patchworking.

The label's broader design language also includes romantic draping, dramatic volume and structured corsetry, combined with fabrics including silk, Chantilly lace, tulle, chiffon and satin. Lace-up adjustability is another feature identified in the official LFW profile, reflecting Trombatore's emphasis on adaptable design.

Dreaming Eli Revisits Its Accessories

The Spring/Summer 2027 collection also included updates to existing Dreaming Eli accessories. According to TheIndustry.fashion, the Wild Hearts Bleed platform heels returned with a satin finish and new blush and rose colorways.

The collection also featured an updated Pearl 3D bag range. TheIndustry.fashion reported that the bags were 3D-printed in partnership with Harry Mack and engineered by Unit9, introducing digital fabrication alongside the collection's extensive use of hand-manipulated materials.

Dreaming Eli's SS27 presentation continues a design practice that the official London Fashion Week profile characterizes through sensuality, craft and contradiction. With its combination of distressed textiles, layered construction and references to Trombatore's Sicilian heritage, "Dreamers in Exile" places those established ideas within a collection focused on memory and the experience of moving between home and a new place.

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