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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Catherine Fairweather

Dream journey: a nostalgic trip aboard the sleeper train from Amsterdam to Berlin

All aboard: Berlin Cathedral on the Spree River.
All aboard: Berlin Cathedral on the Spree River. Photograph: Andrey Danilovich/Getty Images

On the evening of our overnight train journey from Amsterdam to Berlin and on to Dresden aboard the European Sleeper, we enjoy a restorative plate of oysters and steak tartare on the decks of Amsterdam’s BrasserieMarie overlooking the Amstel. Then, after a nightcap in the adjoining Freddy’s Bar, a legendary spot in the Hotel De L’Europe, we make the short stroll to Amsterdam Centraal Station for the so-called Good Night Train.

At 22.20 we board the train to Berlin, the bunks are swiftly made up and the blinds part pulled down for sleep. You can open the window for fresh air, brush your teeth in your own basin and there is crisp, clean linen. This slow journey is all about the romance of life on the track – and, for me, a lingering nostalgia.

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