I am standing at the bar at the Canton Arms in Stockwell, south London, deliberating over the options on tap. There is a friulano from Veneto, a Provençal rosé, a beaujolais villages …
Yes, it’s not just pints they pull here, but neat little glasses of wine from kegs fitted underneath the bar, using the same chilling system as the lagers and ales. I go for a glass of the rosé. It’s cold, peach‑pale and delicious: everything I want from a glass of wine in summer.