San Sebastián – or Donostia San Sebastian as it’s officially known – has everything you want from a city break.
This dazzling coastal city in the Basque region of northern Spain is flanked by the sprawling Aralar mountains and the beautiful beaches of the Bay of Biscay.
Its regal, Belle Epoque-era, architecture recalls its grand past when it became a popular destination of choice for the holidaying Spanish monarchy.
There’s a thriving surfing scene, while the gorgeous promenade which stretches across the beach is wonderful for an evening stroll.
Foodie heaven
San Sebastian boasts the highest concentration of Michelin stars – 19 in total – per square kilometre in Europe. If you want a three-star dining experience, Arzak is a highly lauded institution.
But you are as likely to have an equally memorable eating experience roaming the busy pintxo (pronounced peen-cho) bars of the city’s old town, eating bite-sized pieces of culinary art (such as the world’s best anchovies) while sipping on glasses of the local gently sparkling txakoli (pronounced cha-koli) wine.
Glasses of wine are inexpensive and can cost as little as €1.50.
There are ample bars and craft breweries too. The family-run Bar Desy is a popular 30-year-old haunt with an array of exciting new-wave craft beers.
Many of the pintxo bars don’t open until 7pm in the evening. I’ve included a panel on some of the best that we sampled.
Be sure to finish your evening out with a trip to La Vina for the best cheesecake you will ever taste. And don’t be like me and greedily ignore the local advice – one portion really is enough for two people.
Other attractions
You can enjoy shopping trips to the centre of the city, where many familiar brands can be found alongside smaller local boutiques adorned with Basque-influenced design and clothing.
Be sure also to drop into San Telmo museum in the heart of the old town, housed in a 16th-century former Dominican convent with a more recently added modern extension. It’s home to more than 35,000 artefacts celebrating Basque culture, including art, photography, archaeology and history.
The San Telmo Aquarium and the Maritime Museum are also well worth a visit.
After a hearty lunch, there is no better way to walk it off than ascend the mini-mountain, Monte Urgull, atop which is a giant statue of Jesus Christ.
Along the way, you will encounter the crumbling remains of a castle and fort along with a cemetery – and if you look carefully enough you'll find an open-air café with a stunning view of the city and beaches below.
On the other side of the bay is another must-see attraction with breathtaking views – the steep, green Monte Igueldo, which is one of San Sebastian’s most popular vantage points.
You get up and down using a 100-year-old cable train.
When at the summit, look across the sea to Monte Urgull and in the middle of the bay is Santa Clara Island which you can access by boat (or a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard if you are more adventurous). It’s worth going to see the white lighthouse, inside which you’ll find Hondalea, a massive art installation by Cristina Iglesias.
For a relaxing nightcap, one of the best options is the cocktail bar La Gintoneria Donostiarra in the Gros neighbourhood. The bar is home to more than 150 gins.
Remember that this isn’t sunny Spain, and there is lots of rain throughout the year. Weather-wise, the best time to go is May, June or September as in July and August the city is going to be full of domestic tourists.
We flew into Biarritz in France and got a coach from there. There was no rain during our visit, and we’ll most definitely be returning to this foodie heaven.
Where to eat: recommended pintxo bars
Bar Txepetxa - Anchovies on toast with the likes of spider crab cream, sea urchin and Jardiniere on top.
Bar Nestor - This is where the best tortilla in Spain is. You need to go there an hour before they open and queue outside to get your name on the list (they only make two tortillas a day). If you miss out, a blush-red tomato salad and the regional chuleta (steak) are worthy substitutes.
Casa Urola – A new age pintxo bar. We were advised by friends to order one of everything from the pintxos board and get a glass of txakoli and we did and everything we had was delicious. Doors opened at 7pm and there was no room left by 7.05pm.
Borda Berri – Try the creamy orzo risotto dish, which is stunning. The pig’s ear and veal cheek dishes were popular too.
Gandarias – A great place to start. Locals eat here but the staff are trained to deal with tourists. The solomillo (steak on bread) pintxo is a treat.
Paco Bueno – Renowned for the best croquettes and gambas in Spain.
Gorriti Taberna – A local hotspot with not many tourists, with awesome croquettes.
Ganbara – Specialises in sauteéd wild mushrooms topped with a golden egg yolk.
La Cuchara de San Telmo – Locals love the foie gras with cider syrup.
How to get there
There are two airport and bus options.
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Bilbao twice a week from February 19 and every day from March 26 until the end of October. Flight time is just less than two hours. The easily accessible bus to San Sebastian takes 75 minutes.
Ryanair flies from Dublin to Biarritz four times a week in March and April and five times a week from May until the end of October. Flight time is two hours and five minutes and the fastest bus to San Sebastian takes only 40 minutes.
You can also take the Brittany Ferries overnight ferry Salamanca from Rosslare to Bilbao, especially if you fancy taking your car with you.
How to get around
It’s easy to walk the length of San Sebastián. The city is also cyclist-friendly.
Local buses run by Dbus were regular and on time.
Taxis generally don’t stop on the street. Instead, you’ll need to look for a taxi rank. There are plenty in the city centre, often outside hotels and near the main attractions.
Where to stay
We stayed at Hotel Barcelo Costa Vasca, a modern, comfortable and affordable, urban hotel located just 550 metres from Ondarreta beach.
Recently renovated with excellent facilities, it is connected to the city centre by the delightful promenade along La Concha beach.
There are 203 rooms offering different accommodation choices and capacities with an avant-garde design theme. Visit barcelo.com/en-ie/barcelo-costa-vasca
Photos: Donostia San Sebastián Turismoa. For more information, visit sansebastianturismoa.eus.
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