Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
Was the London of before ever quite real? I only know it has gone: the smog has cleared, there are no chimney sweeps dancing on the rooftops and cockney accents are today confined to either E Pellicci or Guy Ritchie movies. More disappearing acts are billed: after 111 years of ladling parsley sauce gelatinous with eel stock — “liquor” — the Deptford Manze’s will evaporate into the great East End in the sky. Harringtons Eel and Pie House will ascend shortly after. Once there existed hundreds of these places. No longer.
