Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
Chefs are sometimes asked the secret to their success. There is a particular type who insists, with the faux modesty of an actor who attributes his Oscar win to God alone — to the presumed fury of his agent, director, co-stars, the writers — that all a great restaurant requires is good ingredients, cooked simply. “We buy the best,” they say, with a self-indulgent chuckle, “and try not to mess with them too much.”
