Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Prawn cocktail to start is hardly a wanton display of non-conformity, so one of the mysteries of the Devonshire — the Soho behemoth, not the Kentish Town goth hovel — is exactly why it defibrillated the dying British pub. The traditional formula, repeatedly said to be gasping its last, instead turns out to be just the ticket for international success. Fancy jet-set magazine coverage and A-listers on your WhatsApp? Lamb hotpot and sticky toffee pud have all the answers.
