Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
It is not chefs who determine where’s good to eat in London, but landlords and estate agents. Shoreditch is having another of its revivals. Whoever’s been representing Montacute Yards is on a roll: first they nab the reborn Singburi, and now they’ve talked JKS Restaurants into opening here with Legado, Nieves Barragán’s follow-up to the perpetually packed-out Sabor. Quite the get; Barragán is that rarest of things, a chef’s chef who doesn’t bore the public. Anticipation for this one has been matched only by expectation.
