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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews Jeru: Squandered promise frustrates at this lazily executed Middle Eastern

Handsome: the dining room at Jeru

(Picture: Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures L)

“How was your experience at Jeru?” came the email, with a request to rate the restaurant from one star to five. “Oh dear,” I thought, “they’ve already overestimated things.”

I should have known better. Berkeley Square attracts money hoicked from God knows where and best not to ask; if nightingales still sing here, they’ll have fillers in their beaks and Brazilian wing lifts. Hit restaurants in these parts are marked by an insistence on glitz, pulsing club beats sans melody, names that don’t make sense and what can only be a deliberate disinterest in the food.

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