
Review at a glance: ★★★★★
Is Chris D’Sylva London’s angriest restaurateur? He might want diners to think so. He’s learnt from the Ramsay playbook: rage is a bait people take. In March he made headlines by letting slip about a customer blacklist at his Notting Hill bistro Dorian, where he reviews and ranks his diners. “Everything gets marked,” he warned darkly. Rude to staff? Out on your ear. Cancel a booking? Yer barred. Influencer wanting a freebie? Go to hell. Dare even to ask about moving tables and D’Sylva will be stood over you out in the street.