Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Food is the great stirrer of memory. Madeleines for Proust, toad in the hole for me. It follows that restaurants are vehicles of a kind, both Concordes and DeLoreans: they take us across the world, but also through time. Pubs summoning the splendour of the Victorians; wine bars that recall Paris in the 1950s; brasseries with a touch of 1960s cool. Rarely, though, are the early-2000s exhumed, as in Bonheur. “Ah, the great mediocrity of the Noughties,” I didn’t think. “Thank God someone’s brought it back.”
