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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews AngloThai: How to make a stellar Thai? Slow cook for six years

Review at a glance: ★★★★☆

Punctuality is a trait I deplore in others. How dare you turn up on time when the rest of us are running late? Tardiness is a virtue. Even so, John and Desiree Chantarasak have been pushing it. The couple, him the chef and her the wine head honcho, were meant to open this place in 2021. Even that felt a long time coming: as a travelling roadshow, AngloThai has appeared just about everywhere since 2018. Could it really now commit to one place and settle down for good? I had visions of arriving to a door marked gone fishin’, or spotting it on Hinge.

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