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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews 27 Old Compton Street: the Spirit of Little Italy lives on at this £10 pasta joint

27 Old Compton Street -

Review at a glance: ★★★★☆

Soho is past its best, same as it ever was. Romanticising a faded bohemia is part of the deal: there was always a time before when the celebs were more famous, the nights were longer, and everything was cheaper. Rose-tinted specs have hidden everything, even the damp patches that darkened the trousers of the Eighties soaks who arrived at the pub before the landlord.

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