
Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Soho is past its best, same as it ever was. Romanticising a faded bohemia is part of the deal: there was always a time before when the celebs were more famous, the nights were longer, and everything was cheaper. Rose-tinted specs have hidden everything, even the damp patches that darkened the trousers of the Eighties soaks who arrived at the pub before the landlord.