Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Grace Dent

Dai Chi, London W1: ‘Delightfully odd’ – restaurant review

Dai Chi, London W1: ‘You’d never call these people boring.’
Dai Chi, London W1: ‘You’d never call these people boring.’ Photograph: Ola O Smit/The Guardian

Any restaurant with a “concept” makes me slightly nervous. “Do you understand the concept?” I’ve been asked many times over the years. Sometimes, if the staff are being jollier, it’s merely a “Have you dined with us before?” as a lead-up to explaining that everything is served “family-style”, “in no particular order” or “is made only from things rescued from bins”; in one place, I was allowed my next course only after I’d indicated I’d finished my current one by holding up a specific paper flag on a cocktail stick.

Thankfully, Dai Chi’s only concept is that almost all its dishes come on skewers, Japanese kushiage-style (ie, pub food). That said, most of these skewers are deep-fried and often breadcrumbed, so they’re instead describing the restaurant as a kushikatsu, which is big in Osaka. At Dai Chi, that means you get the likes of a single, top-quality black Iberiko tomato, breadcrumbed, on a skewer, with one meaningful anchovy draped over the top. Please eat it all in one go, chomp, down the hatch, because any attempt to nibble on it will result in some serious mopping of your décolletage. Another notable skewer is a large, breaded eringi mushroom with a solo carabinero on top.

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.