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Salon
Salon
Lifestyle
Michael La Corte

Dac Biet: An "extra-special" cookbook

"Top Chef" remains a fan favorite for a host of reasons: top-notch hosting, meticulous judging, abundant expertise, and food that both looks and sounds delicious. Yet, as a television show, it relies on more than just appetizing dishes; memorable personalities are key to drawing in new viewers and keeping audiences engaged.

In recent seasons, one standout personality has been Chef Nini Nguyen. She made an impact during her debut on "Top Chef: Kentucky" and later returned just one season later for "Top Chef: All-Stars L.A." With her charisma, humor, and entertaining confessionals, Nguyen brought a levity to the show that not all cheftestants manage to achieve. She quickly became a fan favorite — not just for her lively personality, but also for her impressive dishes, which consistently looked and sounded outstanding.

As noted by her "Top Chef" bio on the Bravo website, Nguyen "started as a pastry cook at restaurants like Coquette and Eleven Madison Park" before working with Dinner Lab and Cook Space, where she taught classes, hosted pop-up dinners and private events before going all-in on online cooking classes in 2020 and beyond. 

Now, Nguyen is releasing her first cookbook, the amazingly colorful and bright "Dac Biet: An Extra-Special Vietnamese Cookbook," which she has dedicated to her late younger brother, Bobby. Nguyen captures that same joie de vive from the show throughout the pages of the book, writing openly and candidly while sharing incredible-sounding food (and complete with truly stunning photography). It's one of my favorite new cookbooks released this year.

In the introduction of the book, Nguyen writes that Vietnamese food “is very herbaceous, very textural, and very much in balance, in that it only takes a few components to get the result that you want. Whether it's a bunch of family-style dishes served separately, or all grouped together in a bowl, every element — salty, sour, bitter, spicy, or sweet —plays a key role in your meal." 

You see this come through in every recipe, including her ginger-braised chicken, which I made recently. It was absolutely tantalizing, came together in under a half hour and called for only a handful of ingredients. I can't recommend it enough.

Salon recently had the opportunity to speak with Nguyen about the cookbook, her time on "Top Chef," how the pandemic influenced her career and what's to come next.

The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length. 

For those unaware of your journey since Top Chef, can you break it down for them?

I competed in two seasons of Top Chef and honestly, the pandemic is what really shaped who I am today. The second season, which was the All-Stars season, aired during the pandemic and that’s when I started offering online cooking classes. Those classes helped me build a wonderful audience and they’re a big reason I’m where I am today.

Do you have a number-one favorite ingredient to work with?

My secret weapon is fish sauce — it’s magic. But when it comes to favorites, I absolutely love working with fresh herbs. They just elevate everything.

Did you prefer the experience of one of your "Top Chef" seasons over the other?

The "All-Stars" season was hands down my favorite! Watching seasoned chefs go head-to-head was amazing. Cooking competitions are a whole different ballgame compared to cooking in a restaurant kitchen. It was eye-opening and really helped me grow as a competition chef.

If yet another "All Stars" were to be planned or another opportunity to compete on the show arose, would you be open to a third round?

Oh no, I’m good! I think I’ve had my fill of competing on "Top Chef." I’d love to judge, though! There are so many incredible chefs coming up and I’m all about making room for fresh talent.

What was the biggest lesson or takeaway you gleaned from competing in "Top Chef" twice?

The biggest lesson I learned? It’s okay if you don’t win. I was pretty heartbroken the first time, but doing it a second time made me realize just being there is an honor. The experience doesn’t break you—it makes you stronger and helps your career.

What stands out for you as a formative moment that got you into cooking or food at large?

I’ve always loved cooking. But graduating in 2008-2009 during the recession, I knew my degree wasn’t going to land me a high-paying job. So, I decided to cook because it was something I truly loved.

What would you say are your three most used ingredients?

Rice, fish sauce and onions — they’re staples in my kitchen.

What is your favorite cooking memory?

It might sound cliché, but going to the market on Saturdays with my grandma and cooking with her is my favorite memory. Family cooking moments are the best.

What’s your biggest tip for cutting down on food waste?

Save your trimmings! I keep everything — onions, celery, veggie scraps — to make broth. Same with bones! And if you buy shrimp, get them with the shells on; that makes amazing shrimp stock for all sorts of dishes.

How do you practice sustainability in your cooking?

I grew up in a household where wasting food just wasn’t an option. We ate seasonally and that’s a great way to be sustainable. It makes everything taste better, plus it’s exciting to look forward to seasonal ingredients each year.

You’ve been on many shows since appearing on "Top Chef." How do they compare? How do the competition —and anxiety — levels differ?

"Top Chef" was tough on my confidence, but "All-Stars" really helped me bounce back. I took a break from competitive cooking because it’s so stressful. I’m back now on a new network, but it’s more playful for me this time around.

Is there a particular dish from your "Top Chef" tenure that you are still especially proud of?

Definitely my Masa Ball Soup! I made matzo balls with masa harina in a Tom Kha broth. It made other chefs so jealous — I loved that. I just wish I had nailed the masa balls. It would’ve been epic!

What did the "Top Chef" incubator teach you? I spoke with Buddha just after his win last year and he referenced how it can be so great to singularly focus on cooking — not bills, not customers, not the daily minutiae of running or working in restaurants, etcetera/ 

It taught me how to be present and make friends. I made a ton of chef friends and I definitely learned from them. But honestly, it was stressful. Buddha can say he enjoyed it because he won, but it was a lot for me!

In your book, I love the "architecture of the banh mi" section, as well as some of the other super-detailed step-by-step visual breakdown pages. Can you speak a bit to the development of those section?

I’m a visual learner and I think a lot of people are, too. So, I wanted to show how things work in my brain — how to set up, prep and host. Developing those sections was so much fun and I’m grateful my editors loved the idea too!

What does it mean to be "dac biet"?

"Dac Biet" means "extra special." It’s the best way to describe who I am, how I cook and how I like to live! I’m loving that people are starting to associate me with the term—especially now on book tour. It’s everywhere!

Your cooking classes were all the rage throughout the pandemic. Can you talk a bit about how you pivoted to that  and what you've been prioritizing since?

The cooking classes during the pandemic were so much fun! Honestly, I wish they were still in demand because it was such a special time. Even though the pandemic was scary, I loved being able to stay at home but still connect with so many people through these virtual classes. I’ve made friends all over the country through them — it's been such a blessing. I’ve seen people move, have babies and grow in their lives — and they’ve been part of mine too. I even met Jo, who works with me now, through these classes!

Before that, I had run a cooking school in Brooklyn, so teaching has always been a passion of mine. I love showing people how to cook and building that connection, especially when everyone was craving that during such an isolating time. It was truly one of the most rewarding experiences and I’m so thankful for everyone who joined me during that period. Teaching is still a big priority for me and I’ll always be grateful for how much it’s shaped my journey.

I'd love to hear a bit about the Vietnamese food and culture in NOLA and how it's influenced you, both personally and professionally?

Being Vietnamese and growing up in New Orleans is such a unique experience. There are so many beautiful similarities between the two cultures and I try to highlight that in my book. It’s part of my identity and I love showing the world that people like me are here, making our mark in American culture.

What makes Dac Biet "extra special"?

It’s the way I add a little extra to everything — flavors, textures and techniques. My recipes are traditional, but I add chef twists to make them stand out. This book is my way of preserving Vietnamese culture as I know it and I hope people can connect with it — whether they’re Southeast Asian or not.

Do you have a favorite recipe in the book? Or even just a favorite section or chapter?

I can’t pick a favorite recipe — they’re all my babies! But I do love the Món Nhậu (drinking snacks) chapter. It’s playful and I’m a big fan of throwing a party with fun snacks and cocktails!

Is there a recipe in the book that you think is perfect for those new to Vietnamese cuisine or cooking at large? And is there a more involved recipe in the book that you think would make for a great weekend project?

If you're new to Vietnamese cooking, I’d recommend starting with the Gà Kho Gừng — ginger-braised chicken. It’s actually the most popular recipe people make as their first introduction to Vietnamese cuisine from the book. It’s simple but packed with flavor and it's a great way to dive into those classic Vietnamese flavors without feeling overwhelmed.

For a weekend project, I’d suggest the Patê Sô — Vietnamese meat pies. They’re really fun to make. You can even cheat and use store-bought puff pastry!

I know that you'll be filming something new soon. Would we be able to get a hint at what that might be? 

Ooh, I can’t spill too much, but I will say it’s for Food Network and Max and it’s the second season of something . . . that’s all I can share for now!

What's next for you, ideally?

In a perfect world, I’d love to turn Dac Biet into a restaurant! I want to focus on hyper-local ingredients — seafood from Vietnamese fishermen in the Gulf and produce from the farmers in the neighborhood I grew up in. I want to create a space where people can experience true Vietnamese cuisine in New Orleans.

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