When you first cycle through the idyllic Kentish village of Pluckley, you’re struck by just how English it is. The Darling Buds of May was filmed around here. You can imagine Miss Marple keeping an eye out through one of the cottage windows. It’s the kind of place that could win village of the year.
Pluckley, a picture-postcard village with secrets …
But there’s something else … Come out of Pluckley station and you’ll hear the squeak of a sign swinging in the breeze. That’ll be the Victorian-era hunting lodge turned award-winning pub the Dering Arms. Cycle six minutes into Pluckley proper and you’ll come to St Nicolas’ church, a 900-year-old building set among silent winding lanes and fields. It’s home to the White Lady (said to haunt the vault where she was buried some 500 years ago), the Red Lady, who roams the churchyard, little white dog at her feet, and another 10 or so other ghosts.
Welcome to the most haunted village in Britain.
Our home for the weekend, Romden Barn, is a quick cycle ride from the station, and we went via the Pluckley farm shop with its hyper-local sparkling wine, honey and heritage tomatoes. My partner Lorin and I only learned of the area’s ghostly reputation when a neighbour mentioned it the following day … just as we were setting off to check out the ruins of a 12th-century church. Not afraid of a friendly ghost or two, we proceeded with our plans …
While the churches may be a little on the spooky side, the barn, nestled between Pluckley and Smarden, is stunning. Straight out of Grand Designs, it’s all exposed beams, lofty ceilings, bright rooms and so much space. Sleeping at least six, it plays host to everything from big family birthday parties and friendly reunions to couples’ getaways for those of us who live in tiny flats the rest of the time.
Romden is a traditional barn with all mod cons
Keen runners, we had come for a weekend at Romden to finish off the last of our marathon training – mapping out a simple route that’d take us through local points of interest while taking in as much greenery as possible. We wanted to stay somewhere that was accessible by public transport, where we could store bikes and – most importantly – had facilities for winding down and relaxing post-run. It’s tough work, clocking up the miles every weekend, especially when you’re treading the same towpaths and parkrun routes. The plan was to take a fast train down from London on the Friday evening, head out on a long Saturday run somewhere entirely new, cycle to the local shops for provisions, and then spend the rest of the weekend luxuriating in the barn’s hot tub with a glass (or five) of local fizz.
Saturday dawned bright and sunny, and we jogged through Smarden towards St Mary’s (the site of the aforementioned ruins). Every turn we made, we were greeted with another breathtaking vista or Instagram-worthy scene. On the picturesque, winding lanes, drivers are so used to cyclists, ramblers and runners, that they give all slower-moving traffic a terrifically wide berth. And, mercifully, we didn’t come across Pluckley’s resident spectral highwayman or phantom coach and horses on our jog either.
Calling it quits at 11 miles, we grabbed our bikes and pedalled to the farm shop for brunch provisions: vinegary Kent crisps, slabs of local bacon, fresh eggs, soft sourdough, tangy chutney … cold wine. As the Aga warmed up back at Romden, we indulged our inner Wim Hofs by stripping off and taking a plunge in the barn’s cold-water pond – deep breathing amid the water boatmen before dashing to the hot tub to warm back up. A full English has never tasted so good.
It’s easy to explore the area on two wheels, with many destinations in cycling range
There’s plenty to do around the area with a bike – all of which is carefully noted in a bumper binder curated by Romden Barn’s owners, who are cyclists too and pedal a daily route around the villages. As well as going to every trouble to make the barn as comfortable as possible, including leaving us a bottle of fizz and a delicious, local pink apple juice, they’ve done their damnedest to make your experience of Kent a memorable one. Leeds Castle is an hour’s cycle north, while Sissinghurst (arguably the best gardens in England) is about 45 minutes away. The seaside at Rye takes just over 90 minutes – slightly longer than the cycle to the National Trust’s Scotney Castle.
And of course, you’ve got plenty of pubs around. Cycle up to the Rose & Crown at Mundy Bois before checking out the Black Horse in Pluckley (which is next to the haunted church). Then head over to the Bell in Smarden (built in the 1500s) and finish in the Flying Horse – enjoying a pint and looking on to the lush fields that’ll take you back home.
Of course, that’s all assuming you actually manage to leave Romden Barn. After our full English, we found it too difficult to ignore the draw of the whirlpool bath, huge beds, Sky box and the hot tub. Lounging at Romden, surrounded by fields and birdsong with a cup of tea, we achieve real peace … and not a ghost in sight.
Romden Barn comfortably accommodates six
To book a stay at Romden Barn, or to find your perfect holiday home anywhere in Britain, go to cottages.com
