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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Eben Muse

Country diary: South Wales’s summer of fires will linger long in the memory

Smouldering, fire-blackened land in Rhondda Valley, with wind turbines on the hillside above
Smouldering land after the fires at Ferndale, Rhondda Valley. Photograph: Eben Muse

My friend John and I are climbing Tylorstown Tip – a summit also known as Old Smokey, named after the hot ash it was partly made with. We want to see how much of south Wales has burned.

The tip towers over the surrounding hills, a perfect crow’s nest from which to witness the blackening of the region. From the summit, with its sitka spruce and flowering heather, the expanse of St Gwynno’s forest spreads out before us, all 6,533 acres of it. Browned, dead plantation forestry gives way to grassland burned to cinder. A veil of smoke lies above the forest for miles.

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