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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Environment
Maria C Hunt

Could an ancient, climate-friendly crop be the future of beer?

two men drinking beer and smiling at each other
Pierre Thiam and Garrett Oliver’s first fonio beer was called Teranga, the Wolof world for hospitality. Photograph: Joseph Soriero/Courtesy of Brewgooder and Brooklyn Brewery

There’s a certain magic to fonio, a tiny golden grain believed to be Africa’s oldest cultivated cereal. The ancient grain’s potential to solve pressing modern environmental and economic challenges inspired Pierre Thiam, the Senegalese-born chef, to become fonio’s No 1 champion.

After rediscovering the grain and showing home cooks how easy to cook and versatile it is, now Thiam is introducing brewmasters around the world to what fonio can do in beer.

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