
As I slowly cruise through the crystalline lagoon at Assinie, where the Comoé River meets the Atlantic, I'm struck by an uncomfortable truth. This private beach bungalow, with its panoramic ocean views and infinity pool, would cost me £400 a night in Barbados. Here, it's around £200.
The only sounds are the gentle lapping of waves and the chirrup of the Orange Weaver bird from the palm forest behind me. There is only one jet ski in sight and no cruise ship crowds the horizon. This is what the Caribbean used to feel like before everyone discovered it.