After last season’s Wings homage, Stella McCartney has continued to mine her mother’s wardrobe for inspiration. For her autumn winter collection, unveiled at the Parc André Citroen park this morning in Paris, she cited Linda McCartney as the catalyst behind this “return to the essence of the Stella woman.”
The front row included her father Sir Paul McCartney as well as fellow Beatle Sir Ringo Starr, Charlotte Rampling, Melanie C, Paris Jackson and Naomie Harris. Lila Moss and Natalia Vodianova (a rare occurrence) both walked in the show.
As ever, McCartney took the opportunity to underscore her commitment to a more responsible fashion industry, something which is largely unmentioned by other designers on the schedule. Soberingly, she reminds that the fashion industry emits between 2-8 per cent of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions.
Her rallying cry came as a manifesto entitled “It’s about f**king time”, an homage to Mother Earth read by Olivia Coleman and Helen Mirren at the opening of the show - McCartney is wise enough to know that a smattering of star dust does wonders to amplify an unpalatable message - played on, of course, Sony screens made from recycled materials. Would it be unfair to point out the legions of guests’ cars ramming the streets in the outer borough where the show was held? Sustainability is, of course, never straight forward.
Her intention is literally woven into her work, 90 per cent of this new ready-to-wear collection is crafted from responsible materials including regenerative cotton boulcé denim and mock-croc trench coats made from Uppeal - a vegan leather derived from apples. A new signature Falabella bag even comes painted with Airlite - a technology which purportedly purifies the air. If that sounds tempting, pieces covered in a new lip motif print are available to purchase now, alongside T-shirts from the runway (the rest of the collection will be on sale later in the year).
Winning pieces included sweeping teddy bear coats in a soft blush pink and earth brown. The mushroom-hued tailoring came with inviting crystal lattice details, in those signature wide off shoulder cuts. Show piece loop-woven red knits were compelling, as were the wide leg blue jeans poppered down the side, denim spliced with herringbone jackets and cool tinsel-strewn tasselled strapless gowns.
Sportier elements were scattered through - polo shirts reimagined as body suits, just pumped up enough bomber jackets with loose shorts and very good oversized moto jackets.
If this is guilt free fashion, I’m all for it.
