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The Hindu
The Hindu
Lifestyle
Thomas Zacharias

Column | Forest foods and its people

As a chef dedicated to unearthing the roots of our culinary heritage, my journey across India in the past decade has been humbling. The most cherished lessons have come not from bustling markets or home kitchens, but from interactions with various Adivasi communities and understanding their unique relationship with the land. From broiling wild crab on an open fire with the Angami tribe in Nagaland to tasting fermented fish chutney with the Mishing tribe in Majuli, each encounter has been a revelation.

These experiences also went beyond the discovery of ingredients. I was learning to substitute salt with banana stem ash from the Apatani tribes in Arunachal Pradesh, or discovering the use of queen sago flour and shatavari among Kerala’s Kadar and Malayar tribes. They revealed the deep connection these communities have with their environment, something that’s often overlooked in mainstream culinary narratives.

Chef Thomas Zacharias learning how to prepare mahua fruit in a home in Palghar
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