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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Comment
Lauren Cochrane

Collectors can fight to pay £7m for a Birkin – but the ‘it’ handbag is no longer cool

Auctioneer Aurélie Vandevoorde during the sale of  Jane Birkin's bag for €8.6m at Sotheby's in Paris, 10 July 2025
Auctioneer Aurélie Vandevoorde during the sale of Jane Birkin's bag for €8.6m at Sotheby's in Paris, 10 July 2025. Photograph: Julien Hekimian/Getty Images

The news that Jane Birkin’s original Hermès bag has sold for a record-breaking €8.6m (£7.4m) at auction will no doubt cause some jaws to drop to the floor. However, perhaps it should not surprise – this is a bag design that is often linked to eyewatering amounts of money. Forty years on from the prototype, it’s now less a (very expensive) symbol of style and elegance, and more a way to signal you have a lot of money and you would like everyone to know that.

A Birkin has always been expensive – about $10,000 (£7,400), according to the Guardian last year – but the complicating factor is demand. As was reported, two California residents sued Hermès for a practice known as “tying”, which means customers are expected to pre-spend a sufficient amount on other items, such as homewares or jewellery – some say up to $30,000 – before they are even put on the waiting list for a Birkin. Therefore, wearing one on your arm – to those in the know – shows you have the disposable income that not only means you can buy the bag, but also go through with this practice in the first place.

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