In peak summer, my oven is largely decorative. Working in food, my office is quite literally the kitchen: I write at a repurposed steel prep table, with my laptop on top and Dutch ovens stored below, that sits directly beside the stove. Turning on the oven changes the climate of my entire workplace — but roasting summer fruit is one of the few things that makes the sacrifice worthwhile.
The heat makes berries slump and burst, pooling the pan with juices that turn thick, glossy and intensely flavored as they cook, a concentration that maceration alone simply can’t achieve. Blueberries are especially good this way, tumbled with honey, orange zest and a few sprigs of thyme until they become jammy and fragrant.
