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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Nick Curtis

Clyde's at the Donmar Warehouse review: a glorious kitchen drama that's like The Bear... but better

It seems writer Lynn Nottage can turn just about anything into dramatic gold. Hot on the heels of Mlima’s Tale at the Kiln, about the international ivory trade, comes this glorious, humane and penetrating comedy about ex-cons trying to create the perfect gourmet sandwich in a Pennsylvania truckstop kitchen. It’s uproarious fun with a serious undertow – like cult TV hit The Bear, but better.

Lynette Linton’s production is rich in detail and texture and features gorgeous performances from two of her acting muses. The chameleonic Ronkẹ Adékoluẹjo is vibrant, vulnerable Letitia, jailed for stealing drugs for her disabled daughter (and some oxytocin and Adderall to sell on the side). Giles Terera takes a back seat as the guru who inspires her and the rest of the team with visions of “intangible grace” between sliced bread.

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