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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Lifestyle
Sharlotte Thou

Christmas ham taste test: cheaper meats beat ‘Frankfurt-smelling’ premium option in Choice ranking

To make a budget ham taste better, Choice’s test coordinator Fiona Mair recommends glazing it, serving a sauce alongside and avoiding overcooking.
To make a budget ham taste better, Choice’s test coordinator Fiona Mair recommends glazing it, serving a sauce alongside and avoiding overcooking. Photograph: Tim Hill/Alamy

Choice has named the supermarket Christmas hams that give consumers the most bang for their buck – and those to steer clear of.

The basic versions of many supermarket hams scored better than their fancier counterparts, according to the consumer advocacy group – with one premium ham “smelling like a Frankfurt sausage”.

The best of the bunch was IGA’s Seven Mile Premium Double Smoked Leg Ham, at $12 per kilo. It won points for its “dark skin, smoky aroma and pleasant, fairly balanced flavour”, scoring 79%.

Choice’s panel of experts, including Choice’s test coordinator Fiona Mair, home economist Jan Boon and food consultant Brigid Treloar, tested 10 hams from major Australian supermarkets, evaluating their flavour, texture, appearance, smell and health star rating.

Pru Engel, Choice’s audience and engagement editor, said it was clear supermarkets offered different “tiers” of ham to cater to different budgets, with most offering a cheaper and a more expensive product.

But as the results revealed, you don’t always get what you pay for. Although this year’s winning ham was a “premium” offering from IGA, it was much cheaper than its counterparts from Coles and Woolworths, Engel noted. It also had the lowest total fat and equal lowest saturated fat of all sampled hams.

“Really cheap hams did well too,” said Mark Serrels, Choice’s editorial director. Two of the cheapest hams tested tied for second place.

At $8 a kilo, IGA’s Naturally Smoked Leg Ham Bone in Fully Cooked and Woolworths’ Bone In Half Leg Ham both scored 76%. Also tied in second place was Aldi’s Specially Selected Premium Triple Smoked Half Leg Ham, at $13.49 per kilo.

The worst ham, Coles’ Finest Free-Range Triple Smoked Leg Ham, was also the most expensive, scoring 57% at $15.50 per kilo.

One judge noted that the ham smelt like a Frankfurt sausage, while two said it had a “strange, spice-like aroma” they couldn’t identify and a “sour, lingering aftertaste with an unpleasant mouthfeel”.

“You don’t always get what you pay for … that goes for food, it goes for everything,” Serrels said.

Despite receiving a wooden spoon, this ham was a marked improvement from last year’s worst contender, which scored just 21%.

Engel said while the hams were tasted cold, their flavour profile can change when heated.

While many hams carry claims and logos, it’s important to ensure these claims are genuine and certified, Engels said. Verifications to watch for include the Australian Pork Certified Free Range logo or the RSPCA Approved Farming logo.

Choice also noted that because of the known health risks of processed meats such as ham, “it’s best to limit ham in your diet”.

Engel said there can be a “huge” difference in flavour between a supermarket and gourmet ham, though these can cost between $20-25 per kilogram.

To make a budget ham taste better, Mair recommends glazing it, serving a sauce alongside and avoiding overcooking.

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