When open, the Groucho Club is one of London’s most famous and fabulous places to drink. It is especially busy and convivial at Christmas, when members and their friends have descended to become merry since 1985. But the Soho club has had its licence suspended after it was reported that “a serious crime may have taken place at the venue”. It means that for now the Groucho is closed.
Where might the writers, the musicians, the artists and the film stars — hedonists all — go this festive season? Where will they do shots with Father Christmas? Soho might feel a little broken, but there are alternatives. Some of the places listed here require a membership. That’s down to you and don’t think for one moment that I care.
Trisha’s
First, Trisha’s, perhaps my favourite of all the Soho drinking dens. The pocked-sized basement, full of colour, laughter and song, has been behind a discreet door off Greek Street for almost 80 years. Its owner Trisha is likely to be sitting at the end of the bar watching the evening (or morning) unfold. If you get in, pull up a chair at one of the low tables and enjoy a sobering beer. There is a limited allocation each evening for non-members.
57 Greek Street, W1D 3DX, @trishas.soho
The Devonshire
I’m getting immeasurably bored of the whole, “have you heard of this pub, a Soho hidden gem” shtick. Such flailing attempts at irony for clicks. Anyway, you can head to the Devonshire any time and sit down with a Guinness and what might be the best scotch egg in London. And there’s the green room at the back which you need to be invited into. Are you a twat? You definitely won’t be allowed in if so. Why not leave your job in the City and do something interesting. Then you can listen to beautiful Irish singing instead of standing out the front talking about your latest attempts on Hinge.
17 Denman Street, W1D 7HW, devonshiresoho.co.uk
Quo Vadis
A lovely, charming, gentle place. The chef-patron Jeremy Lee cooks so beautifully. Have one of his pies and order plentiful wine: anybody can dine in the restaurant downstairs, even your mother. Upstairs is the members’ club, plush with soft banquettes and home to one of the silliest smoking areas in London: a minute, drizzly courtyard bordered by bendy foliage. That said, those hoping to book Quo Vadis to host a party may do so, with rooms available and feasts dutifully prepared. My friend Florence, the Lady Mayoress of London, had her engagement party there and I can attest that it was good.
26-29 Dean Street, W1D 3LL, quovadissoho.co.uk
Gerry’s
May I point you in the direction of the restaurant critic David Ellis’ sumptuous review of Gerry’s? Have a read and come back here afterwards. If you require my take, it is that Gerry’s feels like stepping back in time. It is old Soho and therefore it is the best of Soho. To enter is to say, “sure, I’m happy to take a year off my life” and given the government has yet to give the all clear on assisted dying (come on Keir, let us live), Gerry’s is certainly the best option in the interim. Also, always excellent Christmas decorations. Non-members may pay £10 to enter, subject to the discretion of the owners.
52 Dean St, W1D, 020 7437 416
French House
Those looking for a quintessential Soho pub need look no further than the French House, where half pints fly from the bar alongside bottles of Breton cider and dainty glasses of house wine. What a joyful place it is, photographs on the walls and wood creaking under inebriated footsteps. People in there creak, too, though a young crowd might be pocketed round the corner beneath the mirrors, else chattering outside in the ever-lively smoking area. And upstairs! F***! The food of Neil Borthwick is food in all its glory, whether confit garlic on toast or smoked salmon or duck confit on emphatically braised lentils. Come one, come all. Soho royalty.
49 Dean Street, W1D 5BG, frenchhousesoho.com
Coach & Horses
I would like to suggest this pub, too, for any Christmas frivolity. The Coach & Horses is overseen by one of the best in the business, Ally Ross, who has helped to recapture the pub’s old magic. It is a timeless, necessary place, a proper boozer with dim windows and a dodgy carpet dusted with decades past. Tom Baker isn’t ever there any more but all manner of interesting characters will be. And although the place is a little bit of a tourist trap these days, what isn’t? Do not for one moment think people haven’t heard of your local Indian restaurant or that pub you like with the pizzas.
29 Greek Street, W1D 5DH, coachandhorsessoho.pub
Soho House
The one off Greek Street is passable. Or the terrace at the other one. But… really? I am loath to recommend it. So long as you don’t go to Shoreditch, which is a hellscape; a mottled dungeon of media-made disaster chaps. Why are they trying to get laid in New Balance? Why are they talking about their podcast? Still, Soho House exists and so here it is.
40 Greek Street, W1D 4EB, sohohouse.com
The Union Club
I’ve not been to the Union Club in quite some time but it’s a fairly distinguished sort of place with cutely dressed people and a majestic bar stocked with majestic drinks. It would be an agreeable venue for any Christmas do, organised or spontaneous. If you’re not a member, I suggest applying.
50 Greek Street, W1D 4EQ unionclub.co.uk
The Academy
Finally, the Academy, which is another members’ club. It is understated and centred on affordable wine, tucked away above Andrew Edmunds, a shrine to bohemians and people who like wearing tailored jackets which are, thanks to mashed potatoes and biscuits, a little on the tight side. Anyway, this is another marked celebration of a watering hole, Soho through and through, ready for the keenest of long afternoons or the most sultry of evenings.
46 Lexington Street, W1F 0LP, 020 7437 8869
