Between Pudukottai and Ramanathapuram in Tamil Nadu, there are 70-odd villages, a stronghold of Nagarathars or Nattukottai Chettiars, after whom the region is named, a merchant community that have a penchant for trade, beautiful mansions, and good food. They traded salt, precious stones and textiles. Later, their business skills took them to far flung lands such as Malaysia, Myanmar, Singapore, and Vietnam. Chettinad cuisine is a combination of Malaysian influences and Indian spices that leave the final dish with subtle flavours. “What we offer here is a slice of Chettinad experience, what we grew up with in our homes in the Karaikudi belt of Chettinad. The cuisine has South East Asian, Burmese, Malaysian and Sri Lankan influences,” says Sethu Subbiah, one of the founders adding that it was the lack of authentic Chettinad food outlets in Coimbatore that prompted him to start the Chettinad Canteen along with Meyyammai Ramanathan and Vivek Chidambaram.
As we proceed to taste the new eight-course lunch menu, Meyyammai gives an insight into flavours. The taste enhancer is bitter gourd vathal served with an orange slice, raw mango, raisins, thennan kuruthu topped with a dragon fruit slice that brings together arusuvai or six tastes including sweet, sour, bitter etc. “Our belief is that incorporating six tastes in our meals help maintain balanced nutrition,” adds Vivek. After a refreshing start with flavourful tomato rasam served in Martini glass, two plates of starters appear.
The soft, fluffy kuzhi paniyaram platter with a lip-smacking malli thuvaiyal, sakkaraivalli kilzhangu masala and thenampoo boat (for vegetarians) and pepper kaadai ( for non-vegetarians) is a happy fusion of flavours. The mee goreng starter served with prawns/tofu is an ode to the Malaysian influences. “It’s a coming together of authentic Chettinad cuisine and fine dining, including careful plating and presentation in sequential serving of eight course. Every three months, we change our menu. The rice and parottas are a constant,” she says adding that ingredients like sweet potato, kavanarisi (Burmese gluttonous black rice) are sourced from Chettinad, while others like murangapoo is supplied by a farmer here. “We use kalpasi (black stone flower) and dried flower pods (of pineapple) in some of the curries for flavours and aroma.Most importantly, we get our hands from Chettinad. We have Unnamalai Aachi on board, who takes charge of the kitchen.”
While photographs that showcase the palatial Chettinad mansions grace the walls at the 40-cover restaurant, the display of mangu (enamelled cast iron) teapots, cups and plates from Czechoslovakia, Germany, and Switzerland, and ancient wooden spice boxes and ceramic storage jars (part of a Chettiar bride’s trousseau) and colourful Chettinad kottan a handwoven basket made from palm leaf strips in distinctive pattern gives a peek into the rich traditions.
Back to the food. While the button parotta starter served with kozhi vellai kuruma and karuveppilai chicken wings scores high on taste the palate cleanser of moist kavanarisi appam in chilled coconut milk is a match made in heaven. It enhances your taste buds for the main course of mutton chukka/ paruppu urundai rice, curd rice served with the quintessential mandi, a curry dish prepared with water drained after washing rice. Aadi kummayam with vanilla ice cream for dessert rounds off the Chettinad experience.
A meal for two costs ₹ 1900 approximately and Chettinad Canteen is located at No.49, Bharathi Park, Second Cross, Saibaba Colony. For reservations, call 9944221080/ 04222431100
