As a child, I remember hearing the word Zanzibar and thinking how magical and intoxicating it sounded — something about those z’s — and swore to visit one day. I have now been to Zanzibar three times, most notably for my honeymoon, and am happy to report it is indeed a magical and intoxicating place. Masai tribes on snow-white beaches, the ancient spice port of Stone Town (and the birthplace of Freddie Mercury), the heady mix of Arab and African cultures. It doesn’t get any better. Unless you head to Fundu Lagoon on nearby Pemba Island.
Like all worthwhile destinations, Fundu Lagoon is a bit of a nightmare to get to. It’s 80km north-east of Zanzibar, which means a 12-seater plane hop, a 90-min drive and then a white-knuckle speedboat ride. It’s bumpy and wet but the arrival at Fundu Lagoon’s long jetty is the stuff of dreams, thanks in no small part to the welcome from general manager/heart and soul Hannes, who used to manage London institutions Quo Vadis and The Groucho. He came here for the opening New Year’s Eve party in 1999 and never left. It’s easy to see why.
