I’m spending Christmas with the King and Queen in their beloved Norfolk. It’s all very traditional; church on the Sandringham estate on Christmas day morning followed by a huge lunch (after we have dutifully watched HM’s speech on TV).
We will no doubt have a blustery walk on Boxing Day and I’m sure at some stage some of the youngsters will discretely pop to one of the local pubs.
Well, almost.
As the late Queen Elizabeth once said, “some recollections may differ.”
So we won’t technically be with Charles and Camilla, but my family will be a stone’s throw from Sandringham in wintry West Norfolk, because, like generations of royalty, we too know what a special part of the world it is.
Picture perfect Great Massingham is our base, a 10-minute drive from the private royal estate. It could hardly be more English with a duckpond, general store, tearoom and St Mary’s church — its striking Gothic tower a focal point for the village.
“Our very first guests were Lord and Lady Spencer, who were in the area for a shoot”, Hugh Symington tells me proudly. Along with his wife Heidi, the couple have created Hill Farm barns and B&B, set in 17 acres of secluded park land on the edge of the village.
I have booked one of their oak beamed, flint walled converted barns for the festive break.
A bit like the famous family on their estate up the road, guests here are also surrounded by several species of deer. Some are so friendly you won’t have to wait til late on Christmas Eve to say hello to a reindeer.
“This whole area is exploding” Hugh tells me. “The ripple effect from Burnham Market has now reached here”. He is referring to the market town 15 miles away on the North Norfolk coast which for some time has been a popular destination for second homeowners and Londoners on a weekend sprint east. It’s been nicknamed ‘Chelsea on Sea’, and has more than a few upmarket places to stay.
As we gaze over the fields towards horses, the sky a watery winter blue, Heidi says the Norfolk air “is the best wellness drug there is”.
Since the 1860s the Royals have been regular visitors to the county and are largely left alone to enjoy its famous vast skies, and empty landscapes.
It’s one of the reasons the Princess of Wales is thought to have spent time recuperating at her Norfolk home, Anmer Hall, from her recent illness. The video she released announcing she had the-all clear was filmed in some of the family’s favourite spots like Holkham Beach. Kate took photos of her husband and kids there in June.
It is a winter favourite of ours too. Maybe on Boxing Day we will park the car and stroll along the sandy boardwalk which winds through some woods towards the sea. Our nostrils full of the scent of pine, salty air and wet spaniels, the low sun glinting through the trees.
Head for the dunes to listen to the whispering sand grass and recreate the royal snaps.
On Christmas Day itself, join the chattering, well wrapped up crowd to catch a glimpse of the Royal family as they attend the tiny 16th Century St Mary Magdalene church on the Sandringham Estate.
The public don’t join the service itself, but die-hard Royal watchers get to the church gate for 6am to grab a good viewing spot. There is a car park opposite.
Whilst the church, Sandringham House and gardens are all closed to the public during the winter, the adjacent Royal Parkland and children’s play area are open all year round and access is free. In past years George, Charlotte and Louis have all been spotted on the adventure playground’s rope swing and in the treehouse.
As you can imagine, the shop is full of corgi tree decorations and royal themed stocking fillers. You could take Afternoon Tea in the restaurant, just book ahead (£30pp including free parking) www.sandringhamestate.co.uk.
Back in Great Massingham the Dabbling Duck pub is thriving, for both locals and visitors. In 2006 two local farmers rescued it from being redeveloped into housing. Members of the royal family have been known to pop in for a pint.
Sat in a cozy corner of the restaurant co-owner Sally Dobby tells me why the area is such a draw. “It has everything, a beautiful coast, open beaches, marshes, bird watching, walking, so many places to eat high quality local produce”.
The pub has beautifully furnished B&B accommodation, and Sally and her team have recently converted the Victorian house next door, transforming it with wood panelled bedrooms and en suites with rolltop baths.
So, just like the royals, this year we will retreat to the jewel in the British crown which is West Norfolk, for our own majestic Christmas.
Jonathan was a guest of The Dabbling Duck: www.thedabblingduck.co.uk , B&B from £120/night. A self-catering barn at Hill Farm Massingham can be booked from £999 for a weekend: www.hillfarmmassingham.com
