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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jess Cartner-Morley in Hangzhou

Chanel hits lavish new heights in efforts to reignite Chinese market

Models wear the latest creations from Chanel during the Chanel Metiers d'Art show
The origin story of this collection was Coco Chanel’s enchantment with 19th-century Chinese lacquered Coromandel screens. Photograph: Ng Han Guan/AP

Coco Chanel was an ambitious woman, but even she could not have imagined the scale on which the house she founded now operates. This time last year, four blocks of Manchester’s Northern Quarter became a Chanel catwalk. For its final show of 2024, Chanel built a black wooden catwalk spanning the West Lake in Hangzhou, China, to parade this season’s tweed suits with the kiss-curl roof of a pagoda sitting atop a crescent moon bridge over glassy water as a dramatic backdrop.

The 6,000-mile journey from Manchester to Hangzhou reflects the global expansion of Chanel, the second-largest luxury brand in the world. With global revenue reaching $19.7bn in 2023, a rise of 16% on the previous year, Chanel is closing the gap on leaders Louis Vuitton.

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